a.k.a. the m00dawg-Edition Case!
Acquired kit on March 13th, 2024 from:
Commander X16 Developer Edition Laser Cut Case – BitByBit Synths
STEP 1: Checking the parts
Superb laser-cut pieces! Arrange the pieces out: vent pieces on the side, two-circles piece at the front (for power and reset switches), the remaining piece at the back (“IO Shield”).
For this setup, I am using the PR16 DevBoard (Production Developers Board #16). I decided to leave this X16 in the “default” as-delivered configuration (512KB, no VIA #2) so that it will match the Otter16 specs. I have PR15 in the full 2MB with VIA #2 configuration (along with the original DEV108 board), so keeping PR16 in the base configuration will be useful in cross-testing in the future.
STEP 2: Removing Tape Cover
Remove the brown protective covering. This needs a bit of time and patience, make sure to get every piece removed.
NOTE: For the top panel you might consider keeping the tape. You won’t see the internal X16 components as much, but the tape gives the X16 logo at the top more contrast to stand out better.
STEP 3: Add the Spacers
My kit came with 9x spacers, which match the 9x pre-cut holes on the bottom panel of the laser cut case. Use the nuts to secure them to the board. Finger tight was sufficient at this stage. Note, the DevBoard technically supports 11x spacers, but the 9x chosen ones is fine.
STEP 4: Attaching the Commander X16 Developers Edition Mainboard
The X16 board is ready to be installed now, which may make it easier to install the four support pillars later. Align the X16 board with the 9x spaces installed earlier. Then use the supplied Allen Wrench to tighten the board down securely.
STEP 5: Securing the X16 Dev Board
I proceeded with putting the four support pillars first. I started to bolt one corner of the top case but realized that this case cannot be (easily) re-opened once it is secured closed. The Lazer3D case has an inner “shoulder” that the top of the case sits on (with optional bolt down holes). Just a different style!
So, this means first running all the cables inside and setting up the power/reset switches. I like to route the main power cable underneath the VERA chip, to make things look a little cleaner. The Otter16, to me it seemed it had more components below the VERA board, making it hard to route the cable like that (without removing the VERA daughter board entirely). On the regular DevBoard, it’s easy enough to just push the power cable through (maybe guide the other end a bit with a chopstick).
Another difference to note here, the Laser Cut case has vents on the side. On the Lazer3D case, the “vents” at the front are non-functional (no pass thru) and its only vent is through the X logo at the top. This isn’t stated as a pro or con (since in stock configuration, no vents are really needed), just a noted difference between the two boards. The vents on this Laser Cut case could be useful for passing cables or attaching an SD-card extension closer to the front.
REVIEW/OPINION: An alternate left side vent panel someday will be needed for the side-mount expansion port. On the right side vent panel, an extra hole there to route extra power cable from the PSU might be a nice to have (it can supply either 12V or 5V, so useful for lights, disk drive, small screens, USB charging, etc.).
STEP 6: Adding FP (Front Panel) Controls
Connect either switch to “RESET BUT” and “POW BUT” for Power Button. Removing the ring (nut) behind the switch is necessary, since you’ll need to thread the cables through the two holes at the front of the case, then secure them with the nut. You may want some needle-nose pliers to help crank these down.
Then as you see, the cable from the buttons cover-up the glorious X16 production tag. You can braid these or wrap them up and tuck them below the switches to avoid that. Only issue is that in doing that, it may put some (slight) pressure on the front panel, but just enough to make it a little harder as you bolt down all the case pieces (harder in terms of being dexterous enough to hold everything aligned as you bolt things down; smaller hands might need some assistance).
Since this case is transparent, the reset/power buttons themselves don’t need any light illumination. The on-board power (yellow light) and activity light (red light) are visible through the case.
STEP 7: Finishing Up
The four rubber pads are used to avoid the bolts sticking out the bottom of the case from scratching whatever surface this case ends up on. Turn the case over to attach the “feet.” I placed the provided ones just slightly diagonal from the bolts at the four corners. I’d suggest some larger/taller pads, since sometimes it can help to run a cable underneath the X16 case (such as for the keyboard or mouse).
Tighten the top and bottom from both those sides with the exterior screws at the four corners. I had to go a bit tight on those, to keep the case held together. I suggest a slight double-sided sticker on the four black support pillars might be helpful (or maybe a thin kind of Velcro? would be neat if Velcro itself could be 3D printed, but I don’t think we’re there yet).
REVIEW/OPINION: The etched X16 at the top of the Laser Cut case is subtle and hard to capture in images (so it looks even better in person). It might be nice to have an option to “frost” the X16 label at the top (similar to the X16 label at the front).
STEP 8: The View
Some additional views of the Laser Cut case style (left) and the Lazer3D cut case (right). From the side, you can see all the way through the transparent acrylic Laser Cut case. Also see how the Lazer3D case is raised slightly (with the larger feet), enough to pass some small cables underneath of it.
